Crossing the Oykel Viaduct

As I can't go far at the moment, it occurred to me that I could do a series of posts on secondary places I visited on my month-long Scottish Holiday this time last year. I've already written about the A-list places. These are the B-list spots, though rather good for all that. I hope you agree.

I'm beginning with places in the old counties of Ross and Cromarty, Sutherland and Caithness, right up in the far north of Scotland, which for me is the most distant part - it's 800 miles by road from home in Sussex. That makes the area seem rather 'exotic' to me!

I'm not doing these new posts in any particular order; just as they occur to me.

Let's kick off with crossing the Oykel Viaduct. This is a railway viaduct that spans the River Oykel, a big river that once marked the old boundary between Ross and Cromarty and Sutherland. The railway is of course the Far North Line that starts in Inverness and goes its long winding way northwards through Dingwall, Invergordon, Tain, Lairg, Golspie, Brora, Helmsdale, and thence to Georgemas Junction, where the train calls first at Thurso (Britain's most northerly station) and then Wick. There are only four trains a day, but it's an important line for those who don't own a car. Considering the infrequent service, I encountered the trains running on this line oftener than I thought likely, as you will see.

So, it's 13th April 2019, and I'd already visited Dunrobin Castle on what was turning out to be a very sunny but chilly morning. Here's a teaser shot of the Castle (a post on it may come), and myelf wrapped up against the biting breeze:

After Dunrobin, I drove through Lairg (not much there to detain me), and then headed south on the A836 to Lairg station - well out of town but well-patronised - where I met and chatted to this young lady, and hung around for the Inverness train to arrive:

Then further south on the A836 to Invershin. Here are three location maps. Click on them to see the detail.

My first call there was the station at the eastern end of the viaduct. You had to turn off the main road and up a narrow drive, which looked a bit private. The station building had lost its roof and looked a ruin. But the platform itself was neat and tidy, complete with an electronic train information display.

I wondered who might possibly use this out-of-the-way station, in such a sparsely-populated district. Long-distance walkers? Cyclists? Golden eagles? And, even stranger, there was another station across the river, at Culrain. Only half a mile away. Why so close? This wasn't a London suburb.

Actually, I already knew the reason for the two stations being so close. There's now a footbridge next to the viaduct, alongside the line, but there didn't used to be. And it was a long journey on minor roads to get from Culrain all the way around to Invershin, and thence to Lairg (where the cattle market was).

Culrain (and its hinterland to the west of the river) was quite cut off by the river from Invershin (and its hinterland to the east of the river). That state of affairs obtained until the railway arrived. The line provided a direct link at last, and the railway company who built the line made sure that there was a station at either end of the viaduct, so that the local inhabitants could visit each other without resorting to a boat.

Back in Fiona, I now drove the short distance under the viaduct to the 'centre' of Invershin. I pulled in near a hotel. Apart from a scattering of outbuildings, there seemed to be nothing else here, although no doubt there were houses tucked away that I couldn't see.

The river and surrounding hills were very attractive in their spring colours. The viaduct was pretty impressive too.

I walked up to its eastern end. The map suggested there was a footbridge of some kind. I was up for crossing the river and taking a look at Culrain.

Ah yes, there it was. A modern metal walkway, constructed in 2000. One you could wheel a bike along. And a plaque.

IN MEMORY OF

SANDY CHALMERS

OF INVERSHIN

WHOSE COMMITMENT TO THE

COMMUNITY HELPED ENSURE

THIS WALKWAY WAS BUILT

Well, good for you, Sandy Chalmers. And what a good memorial to you and your efforts. 

The walkway had been bolted onto the upstream side of the viaduct, so there was a great view northwards. 

The large building among the trees on the opposite bank was Carbisdale Castle, of which more anon. But I will show you an aerial view from above the Castle, looking back towards the Oykel Viaduct, at another time of year when the colours were prettier, although I doubt whether they are ever quite as vivid as the picture suggests!

You can see the viaduct off to the left, above the blue-sky reflection on the river.

The view southward was more restricted - only through the arches. I got a shot of the hotel, or some of it, and if you peer very carefully you can spot Fiona too, down near the main road:

It was a breezy five minutes, going the length of the viaduct on this walkway. At the end, more steps up, and then I found myself very close to the railway track.

Did I hear an approaching rumble? Another train? So it was.  

I wondered whether the train would stop at Invershin. Probably not. It was a request stop. Only if somebody wanted to get off there, or if somebody waiting on the platform gave a hand signal to the driver, would the train stop. Neither seemed at all likely.

The train noise receded, and then was gone. Just me and the river left to make a sound. There was a path next to the track, heading towards Culrain. I took it. Not without fleeting misgivings. I was suddenly aware that I was all alone and might meet anybody on this path. Suppose I encountered a man consumed with homicidal feelings? Or even with just sex on his mind? The path was fenced in. There was nowhere to run to.  

Who dares wins. I walked on. And was rewarded. Signs of human habitation came into sight. A farm. Some cottages. A proper road, a postbox, road signs. And still no homicidal maniacs. First left, Culrain station. It looked more than just neat and tidy. It was immaculate.

It reminded me of those secret little stations on the Heart of Wales Line - Llangunllo coming especially to mind. And as little-used. In 2018-19 Culrain saw only 280 passengers for the entire year, less than one a day. To compare, Invershin just across the river saw 284. And 'busy' Lairg saw 6,016.

Culrain station used to see a lot more passengers. Until 2011 Carbisdale Castle was a Youth Hostel. Here's an Internet picture of students waiting for an approaching southbound train in 1996:

The Castle (not an ancient relic: it was built in 1907 for the Duchess of Sutherland) is once more in private hands, the owners intending to restore it and turn it into a kind of hotel, with bothies for outdoor types too, and upmarket leisure facilities. If this all goes ahead, the little station might once again get a lot of custom. Apparently at its height the Youth Hostel had 20,000 visitors annually.

Well, time to trek back to Fiona. From the station you got a good view of the village, such as it was. At night, the station lights would all be on, an oasis of orange light when the rest of the place was dark.

This time I noticed the footpath sign to the Castle - redundant now that there was no accommodation to be had there. 

And a sign pointing along the lonely footpath to the viaduct, promising 'Bar and Bunkhouse', presumably at the hotel. I saw also now that the path was a section of a National Cycle Way. So I could forget about homicidal maniacs or rapists - I was much more likely to be maimed by a cyclist. I hoped they would ring their bell in time. 

I made it back to the viaduct intact. The wind had dropped somewhat, and it was getting even sunnier now.

I rather think that I'd left the black down-filled coat in Fiona, and was wearing only my cream-coloured cardigan - hence the fully-visible legs in my shadow. 

Back at Fiona, I planned my next destinations: Bonar Bridge, Ardgay, Dornoch. I'm not sure that any of these are now worthy of a post. 

I will conclude with a majestic shot I took at The Mound, a riverside spot north of Dornoch, just off the A9.